travel / destinations


Jill’s report for today:

All of the CAA group managed to arrive safely yesterday, and we enjoyed a walkabout from Eton to Windsor and then all stopped to enjoy an afternoon tea (tea of choice and two scones each with clotted cream and strawberry jam – yum!!). Then many enjoyed an early evening after their long flights. 

This morning (Wednesday), we all enjoyed a breakfast in the hotel and then walked up the hill in Windsor to watch the changing of the guards just before 11 a.m. The guards are accompanied by a military band, and the cars are all stopped as the troops walk up the main road from the barracks to Windsor Castle.

the band and guards as they walk up through Windsor town from the barracks to Windsor Castle for the changing of the guard (photo by Jill Ryder)

Then the CAA group assembled outside the Windsor Castle Mews to await Terry Pendry, Stud Groom, who had agreed to show us around the Royal Mews (not open to the public). As you will probably have heard, the British government just elected a new Prime Minister and so the Queen was in London to accept Gordon Brown’s resignation and then welcome David Cameron as the new Prime Minister. All this had an effect on Terry and what he was to do that day (as she would normally be at Windsor to enjoy the show and often ride in the morning).

We were admitted by the castle police and stood patiently to be welcomed by Terry. He arrived and spent the next one-and-a-half hours showing us the carriages and cars in the Mews, the many horses of the King’s Troop (who are temporarily housed in the Mews as they are to perform at the show), the harness, the farrier’s shop, and the Queen’s horses and ponies. Of course, the Mews itself is an interesting study with its stables, riding school, grooms quarters, and offices. Members of our group were really interested in everything they were shown, and we were sorry when we had to leave!

Terry Pendry describing the Royal Mews riding school building and its use and pointing out the King's Troop's guns (photo by Jill Ryder)

The morning weather was nice: the sun had come out and all the while we were in the Mews, the sun continued. Just after we left and stopped to watch more King’s Troop horses arrive from London by horse van (and be unloaded out on the street and walked into the Mews), it began to shower!

The forecast is for it to get better each day – hope so.

the Long Walk, taken from just in front of Windsor Castle (photo by Jill Ryder)

Tonight we are going to enjoy a group dinner in our hotel, and we will welcome guests George and Eileen Bowman, Tommy and Barbara Fawcett, Geoff and Anne Woods, Tony and Jan Sellers, and Marie Wood, all from England, plus Jack Pemberton from Canada.

Here is Jill’s first report from England, which she sent on her Monday afternoon and which arrived in my U.S. email inbox on Monday morning:

“I arrived on Friday in England, with only an hour’s delay because of the volcanic ash. I landed at Heathrow and then took a train to Dorset to visit my brother, John, and his family for the weekend. They have recently finished building a new house and I was pleased to see it. Great location and a wonderful house! Then on Sunday, I took the train back towards Windsor and settled in to our home for the week, The Christopher Hotel in Eton.  We always receive a warm welcome in this small, old hotel, formally a coaching inn. Several people were due to arrive today, one day early. I have only seen two people of the five due and both of them were delayed (one for more than four hours) because of the volcanic ash. I went down to the showgrounds today, to the driving office, to pick up our tickets for the show and the Tattoo (which we will enjoy on Friday night). The horses are due to begin arriving tomorrow (Tuesday), and so I was glad to get in and out of the way before the mayhem! The weather has improved a little today and we saw the sun. It has been cold all weekend, colder than ususal.”

How about a few more pictures from Seville?

As I’ve mentioned, colorful tiles are everywhere – on the outside of buildings and covering interior walls. As you might imagine, they are of varying ages, styles, and quality. And, this being a very Catholic society, many of the themes are religious in nature.

Some I saw on my visit (and these are by no means the largest or the most elaborate of the tile decorations on buildings!):

a view of Seville

a beautiful framed image, with sconces on either side, on the side of a church

elaborate (old!) tile- and plasterwork on the walls of the 16th-century palace I visited

another framed image on the side of a church

an image celebrating the area's beautiful jacaranda trees

yet another elaborate image on the side of yet another church

I realize that I keep repeating myself, but I must say, one more time, that the Sevilla feria is a unique and wonderful experience … whether you’re just strolling the sidewalks and stopping to watch the spectacle or whether you’re invited in, as I was fortunate to have been this year.

I would like to extend a huge “thank you” to everyone who so kindly welcomed me into their homes, into their casetas (home away from home for the duration of the feria), and out for rides in their carriages this year.

Not everyone is pictured here, of course, but a few images of my Spanish friends:

Raimundo and his father, Raimundo

Pepa and Reyes

family and friends after lunch in a private caseta

Raimundo with Pepa's cousin, Fernando

members and guests of the R.C.E.A.

I’m back in the States now, after a long trip, but will still be posting photos from Spain for a couple more days.

First off, have I mentioned how extraordinary it is to see the Spanish horses (whether being ridden or driven) on the roads in the midst of traffic, with nary a mishap? One horse was hopping around a bit under its rider, but they were being kind of squeezed to the edge of the bridge by four lanes of car traffic …

this photo is slightly misleading because you can see only a couple of cars; it's fascinating to see the many riding horses and carriages (private or having been hired in the old town by people going to the feria) ... threading their way through four lanes of traffic, around the big roundabout, across the bridge, and on to the fairgrounds

People drive to the fair, or they walk, or they ride horses, or they ride in carriages, or they ride motos (it’s funny to see a man in a suit with a helmet on, driving his moto, with a flamenca-dressed lady seated sideways behind, as she might be on a horse … one of these wore a helmet but most did not, as it would be quite difficult with the flowers the women all wear in their hair). There was more of the car driving and walking this year, apparently, because the public transportation workers had timed their strike to coincide with the feria.

Sadly, we had some rain on and off on Wednesday. But no matter: most everyone (walking or in carriages) had umbrellas and the coachmen and grooms had come prepared with rainproof covers for their hats and with raincoats. All of which, of course, works quite well … but doesn’t look so feria-like in photos. Ah well. It was still a fabulous day at a most remarkable spring fair!

Raimundo and Pepa's daughter, dancing in front of her grandparents' caseta

two of the many riders, stopping for a cup of the ubiquitous drink whose name I never caught; it's a dangerously refreshing mix of manzanilla and Sprite

I was fortunate to be offered another turn around the feria in a carriage, this time with a five-in-hand in traditional harness; here: a view from my seat as we turned a corner; you can see the three leaders and one of the two wheelers

traditional Andalusian-style braids on the leaders of a team owned by Mr. Ordas, whose carriage collection our CAA group visited last year

here, finally, you can see a bit of everything on offer at Sevilla's colorful feria: the casetas, the paper lanterns over the sidewalk, the sycamore trees along the streets, a row of riders taking a drinks break, a carriage with passengers taking a turn around the feria, and women in colorful traditional dresses

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