travel / destinations


The next stop on our group’s first full day in Spain — after the Real Escuela — was Bodegas Fundador, maker of sherry and brandy. The winery and building complex is one of the oldest bodegas in Jerez de la Frontera and was started by a branch of the Domecq family. The facility and its various brands and labels are now owned, along with other sherries and the famous Harveys Bristol Cream, by Beam Global.

We started our visit with a short movie that taught us about the importance of climate and soil conditions to the grapes used in sherry production, and that the sherry-making “triangle” in this part of Spain — from Jerez down to El Puerto de Santa Maria, and over to Sanlúcar de Barrameda — has these necessary qualities in abundance.

From there, we left on a guided tour of the sprawling facility …

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… and we were acquainted with the unique way sherry is made and aged.

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our tour guide pointing out the various types of sherry, while explaining what makes each one unique

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From there, we walked into the brandy cellar, where we learned that the now-famous Fundador Brandy began as a mistake when someone(s) forgot about some barrels of sherry and left them to age for far too long. When they found and opened the barrels, they decided that their “oops” was actually quite tasty. This brandy was first marketed by the Domecq family in 1874, and it’s now Spain’s largest export brandy.

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our tour guide explaining how the bodega's brandy is made

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And then, finally, we were allowed to taste a few of these libations!

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before the tasting (our tour guide explaining the four types we would be trying) ...

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... and during the tasting (why, yes, they were all quite tasty!)

… Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre — the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art — was the first visit on our recently concluded CAA trip to Spain.

So I think it’s a good place to start with the stories, additional photos, and photo captions that I’ve been promising to post.

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At the start of our trip, nearly everyone arrived and gathered for a lovely welcome dinner on a Wednesday, and then we met in the hotel lobby at 8:30 the next morning (jet lag be damned!) to drive to Jerez de la Frontera, which is about an hour south of Sevilla.

We were welcomed at the Real Escuela by Maria Angeles, who is in charge of the foundation’s museums, and she ushered us into the theater to see a movie about the school and its horses. Before the trip had even started, Kathy and I had been practically taking bets on which one of us would tear up during this particular visit. I don’t know about her, but I was almost undone by the movie … and we hadn’t even seen any real horses yet at that point!

From there, we walked through the park-like setting to the property’s original palace:

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… which we toured. But not before noticing the (gorgeous, of course) Spanish horse standing outside the palace. The horse and its traditionally dressed rider are what have captured the attention of the CAA members in the lower right corner of the photo above. It turned out that he was standing there so that visitors could get an “official” portrait of their visit. Such as, say, this one:

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standing in front of the Spanish horse and rider are (left to right) Raimundo Coral Rubiales, me, Maria Angeles Mata Lagomazzini, and Pepe Carmona

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inside the palace

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From there, we toured the foundation’s museum. It’s packed into a small space, but the museum’s interactive (and holographic!) exhibits provide quite a lot of interesting information about the property, the palace we had just seen, the riding school, the Spanish horse, and various types and styles of riding and driving. We even learned about the differences between the area’s traditional livery styles from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, both of which are still used today. Needless to say, this tour provided the perfect background information for much of the rest of our trip.

During the noon-time performance showcasing the school’s horses and riders, we weren’t allowed to take photographs. But, rest assured that it was beautiful and awe-inspiring. If you ever find yourself in Jerez, you won’t want to miss out on seeing these gorgeous, talented horses.

During the intermission, Maria Angeles invited Vicki (as our highest-ranking CAA “VIP” … she’s a past president), me, Raimundo, and Pepe (who was our “local” guest) to take a quick tour of the stables. What a treat! Vicki was introduced to all of the riders, and then we had our photo taken with them:

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Maria Angeles, Raimundo, me, Pepe, and Vicki with the Real Escuela's riders; third from the right is Rafael Andrade Soto and on the far right is Ignacio Ramblas Algarin, both of whom have represented Spain in major international dressage competitions

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Then we were given a quick tour of the tack room. Although it is undeniably lovely, we were assured that it is also functional and used daily.

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this photo is a bit fuzzy (the person using my camera was focused on the background instead of us!), but I have to include it because it was a treat to be introduced to one of Spain's Olympic dressage riders, Ignacio Ramblas Algarin

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As we left the stables to head back for the second half of the performance, I was finally able to take a photo of horses!

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even just standing still: what beauties

After the conclusion of the CAA’s trip to the Royal Windsor Horse Show, Jill and several others traveled to Norfolk to spend a couple of days enjoying coaching runs, lessons, and the neighborhood hospitality at the driving facility owned by John Parker and Susan Townsend.

Today, the travelers arrived back in Eton (where there is a working Internet connection!), and so Jill sent this report and the these photos. Tomorrow, everyone heads home.

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Royal Mail Coach N205 with CAA members aboard (photo by Susan Townsend)

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N205 is probably the most famous coach in Great Britain today. The history of the N205 Royal Mail Coach can be traced back to 1870, but the coach is believed to be considerably older.

The coach weighs 1.25 tons without passengers, is equipped with wooden wheels and steel tires, and has a fifty-two-foot turning circle. It is built on a perch undercarriage with two sets of platform springs and mail axles attaching the wheels to the body.

Like all Mail Coaches, it is painted black with scarlet wheels and undercarriages. The notation “GR” identifies the reign in which it was built (that of King George IV), and the upper quarter panels feature the four stars of the Order of Knighthood. The number N205 identifies the route traveled as London-to-Norwich.

The coach was re-registered in 1969, enabling it to carry the Royal Mail. It is the only coach currently accorded this honor in the modern era.

In order to make the postal service viable, the coach was also one of the first built to accommodate passengers, and it can carry twelve plus the coachman and the guard, who protected the mail and passengers from highwaymen. The guard also acted as the horn-blower, alerting people to the arrival of the mail. Mail Coaches traveled at ten miles per hour, had right of way over everyone else on the road, and paid no tolls.

It is known that N205 was owned by James Selby, who drove it until his death in 1888. Thereafter, its career is a little unclear but records show that it was owned by Bertram Mills, who sold it in the late 1950s. In 1966, John Parker found the coach languishing behind a pub in Wales; he brought it home, and the rest is history.

James Selby himself had two entries in the record books: one for the longest distance ever driven by one coachman, and the other for the fastest time a team of horses could be changed for another — namely, 47.2 seconds, a record set in 1888.

A century later, N205, driven by John Parker, broke both those records. John’s grooms reduced the time for the team change when in a challenge on TV’s You Bet, they changed horses in an incredible 21.2 seconds!
 
In June 1996, John broke the long-distance record when he drove the coach nonstop from the Guildhall in London to Norwich Cathedral — a distance of 139 miles — in twenty-one-and-a-half hours.

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Anna grooming one of the coach horses before the group sets out on a coaching run (photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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ready to head out! (photo by Susan Townsend)

Jill sent this report from the CAA group’s final day at the Royal Windsor Horse Show:

The sun shone again on Sunday morning. We were very lucky with the weather all week: sun each day and just one short shower. But yesterday afternoon, the clouds came in and the wind blew and it was cold!

Despite all that, we had a great day at the show, enjoying the BDS drive and the cones competition for the FEI driving event. Added to that were the Shetland Pony Grand National finals, the meet of the hounds, the ladies’ side saddle competition, the Alltech jumping finals, and lots of awards. Her Majesty the Queen gave out many of the trophies, including for the FEI driving.

Bruce Springsteen and his wife were there all day in the Members Enclosure supporting their daughter, who was show-jumping!

Today, a small group of us have headed off to Norfolk for three days of coaching and driving with John Parker.

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thirty-five members of the British Driving Society lined up before being led by HRH Duke of Edinburgh on a five-mile drive (photo by Jill Ryder)

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one of the participants in the BDS drive (photo by Jill Ryder)

Jill sent this report (and these photos) from Saturday’s CDE marathon at the Royal Windsor Horse Show:

On Saturday morning Richard Nicoll met the CAA group early and walked them around the marathon obstacles. He is in Windsor for an FEI meeting, and so he was enjoying himself instead of working! 

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early on Saturday, Richard Nicoll gave the CAA group a tour of the marathon obstacles (photo by Jill Ryder)

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... in the water obstacle, presumably before the horses and ponies came through! (photo by Jill Ryder)

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part of the display for Land Rover, sponsor of the driving event (photo by Jill Ryder)

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The marathon started at 10:00 a.m. and went on most of the day, starting with the pony fours, then horse pairs and, finally, the horse fours. All seemed to go well on the marathon until the horse fours. The team that went just before George Bowman (GBR) had a turnover and runaway in Obstacle 3, and the horses all ended up in the ditch, which was full of water. It was scary and dramatic, but all horses (and people) were ok.

The CDE scores are available at www.hoefnet.com.

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