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I’m still drawn each day to finding new (old) photos on the website with all the high-resolution (in other words, huge and crystal clear) old photos. It would appear that most of them have been scanned from big (8- by 10-inch) glass negatives. These would have been from large-format cameras, which would explain the clarity. Well, as long as no one moved around too much.

Today: a glimpse back at Washington, DC, in 1903, looking down Pennsylvania Avenue toward the capitol building. There are streetcars (lots of streetcars), pedestrians, delivery vehicles, wagons, owner-driven vehicles, a coachman-driven vehicle, and even what looks like a horse-drawn billboard.

James Flint appears to have spent several weeks in Lexington, during the winter of 1818.

On December 5, he wrote that “Lexington is still considered the capital of fashion in Kentucky. There are here many genteel families, a few of which keep coaches. The town, on a whole, exhibits a well-dressed population.”

On Christmas Eve, Mr. Flint was on his way again:

“Left Lexington. On this occasion I was the only passenger in the mail coach. Clear frosty weather allowed the sides of the carriage to be kept open, so that I enjoyed a view of the country. The expedition in traveling is great, considering the badness of the roads. The land that was beautifully verdant a short time ago, is now withered by the cold.”

On Christmas Day, 1818, he continued his account:

“The coach stopped at Washington, from seven o’clock, last night, till three this morning. It overset on my way hither, and though I received no injury, I resolved upon going no further with that vehicle in the dark, and over such bad roads. About five o’clock I was awakened by the firing of guns and pistols, in celebration of Christmas day. I heard no one speak of the nature of the event that they were commemorating. So universal was the mirth and conviviality of the people, that I could not procure a person to carry my portmanteau to Limestone. It remained for me to stop all day at Washington, or sling my baggage over my own shoulders. I preferred the latter alternative, and proceeded on my way.”

And so we leave James Flint, walking toward the Ohio River, to make his way back to the East Coast and home again.

… Two days later (on November 27, 1818), Mr. Flint wrote:

Crossed the river Licking in a boat, at a small town called Blue Licks, from the springs in its neighborhood, from which great quantities of salt were formerly procured. The adjoining timber is exhausted, and the salt-works are abandoned.

After coming to a flooded creek, where there was neither bridge nor boat, I waited a few minutes for the mail coach. The road is in several parts no other than the rocky bed of the stream. It also crosses the same creek four or five times. After riding a few miles, I left the coach. There is no great degree of comfort in traveling by this vehicle; stowed full of people, baggage, and letter bags; the jolting over stones, and through miry holes, is excessively disagreeable; and the traveler’s head is sometimes knocked against the roof with much violence. A large piece of leather is let down over each side, to keep out the mud thrown up by the wheels. The front was the only opening, but as the driver and two other persons occupied it, those behind them were almost in total darkness. A peep at the country was not to be obtained.

I lodged at Paris, the head town of Bourbon county. A cotton-mill, and some grist-mills, are the manufactories of the place. The population is considerable. Several of the taverns are large, and, like many of the others in the western country, have bells on the house-tops, which are rung at meals.

Later in September 1818, Mr. Flint considered the costs of emigrating from the East to the frontier in Ohio / Kentucky:

Emigrants carry their moveables in one-horse carts, or two- or four-horse waggons, as the quantity of goods may require. They carry much of their provisions from Philadelphia, and other towns, and many of them sleep in their own bed clothes, on the floors of bar-rooms in taverns. For this kind of lodging they usually pay twenty-five cents a family.

It is impossible to say whether it is cheaper to travel with a family, by purchasing a waggon and horses at Philadelphia, or by hiring one of the waggons that pass regularly to Pittsburg. This depends on the price paid for carriage at the particular time, and also on that to be paid for waggon and horses at Philadelphia. In the one case, the waggoner is paid for the weight of the goods, and for that of the persons who ride; and in the other case, the waggon and horses may be expected to sell at, or under, half the price paid for them at the sea-port. The great number of family waggons now on the road, amounts to a presumption that this mode of traveling is now thought to be the cheaper.

Would you like some context to Mr. Flint’s descriptions of traveling westward in 1818?

For a look at the larger picture, here’s an article I wrote on the National Road, which was published in the March 2011 issue of The Carriage Journal.

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It’s easy these days to take our modern transportation networks for granted. We can use back roads, county roads, state highways, and interstate highways to drive anywhere we need to go. Goods come and go, all over the country, by airplane, train, and truck. But when the United States was a very young nation, and the areas we know now as Kentucky, Ohio, and Tennessee were the western frontier, simply getting around could be a monumental task. Outside the major eastern cities, roads ranged from rough, narrow, rutted, and uneven to nonexistent. The most reliable way for people to get themselves from place to place was often on foot or on horseback. For merchants and traders, the best method was usually a navigable waterway — if one was nearby.

Almost from the beginning, U.S. government officials looked for ways to improve and extend existing roads — an effort that was vital to both commerce and communication within the young nation. Of course — as always — there was also a question of how to pay for these improvements, and for any new roads.

In 1803, Ohio was admitted to the Union as the seventeenth state. As part of the discussions surrounding Ohio’s impending statehood, Secretary of the Treasury Albert Gallatin suggested that a percentage of proceeds from the sale of federally owned land in Ohio be set aside for building public roads to connect navigable Atlantic-coast rivers to the Ohio River. Congress approved the plan as a condition of Ohio’s admittance to the Union.

In December 1805, Mr. Tracy of Massachusetts presented a report to the Senate, showing that, in accordance with the Ohio land-sale law, $12,652 was now available for laying out a new “national” road. His report also suggested several possible routes and locations.

By 1806, everyone had agreed on the basic route for the new road. It would begin at Cumberland, Maryland, and end in Wheeling, Virginia (now West Virginia), at the Ohio River. Once across the river, travelers and merchants could continue on Zane’s Trace, in a southwesterly arc, and back across the Ohio River by ferry to Maysville, Kentucky. From there, a series of roads and turnpikes stretched all the way to New Orleans.

Congress approved of the new road in theory, and President Jefferson signed the bill into law in March 1806. The president was authorized to appoint three men to examine the actual route on the ground. These three — Eli Williams, Thomas More, and Joseph Kerr — presented their reports to the president. He, in turn, approved their final report and presented it to Congress in February 1808.

Permission was granted by the states of Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia for the road to pass through their territory; Congress appropriated funds to build the road; and, in 1811, a contract was awarded to begin building the first ten miles heading out of Cumberland, Maryland. Unfortunately, the War of 1812 delayed matters for several years, but construction did eventually begin on the “Cumberland Road” in 1815. The new road was wider, flatter, and less susceptible to the weather than any other previous major road. The builders of this first section of the National Road used an early version of the construction method that would be refined and popularized by John McAdam around 1820.

In 1817, the British writer William Cobbett lived in America for a year and kept a detailed, daily journal. On July 28th he was in Wheeling “to see the new national road from Washington city to this town.” He wrote: “It is covered with a very thick layer of nicely broken stones, or stone, rather, laid on with great exactness both as to depth and width, and then rolled down with an iron roller, which reduces all to one solid mass. This is a road made for ever; not like the flint roads in England, rough, nor soft or dirty, like the gravel roads; but, smooth and hard. When a road is made in America it is well made.”

The first section of the road, from Cumberland, Maryland, to Wheeling, Virginia, was opened to traffic in 1818.

In 1822, a bill went before Congress to fund more roads and maintain existing roads through tolls payable to the federal government. Although the bill was approved by Congress, President Monroe vetoed it. By the early 1830s, the federal government had reached agreements with Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Ohio, and was in the process of turning the Cumberland Road over to these states. Each state then took responsibility for its own section of the road, collecting tolls and making repairs as needed.

Construction on the National Road continued. In 1833, the road traveled through Zanesville, Ohio, and had reached Columbus. And still it continued westward. The plan? To take the road all the way to St. Louis, Missouri, on the Mississippi River. But it only reached Vandalia, Illinois, before the railroads began their westward trek and made the road less of a priority.

This new modern road allowed trade, communication, and settlers to travel with relative ease from the eastern seaboard to the frontier states of Ohio and Kentucky, and beyond. As evidence of this tidal wave of goods and people, the 1840 census acknowledged Ohio as the nation’s third most populous state.

According to the Maryland Geological Survey (published in 1899): from the opening of the road in 1818 “until the coming of the railroad west of the Allegheny Mountains in 1852, the National Road was the one great highway over which passed the bulk of trade and travel and the mails between the East and West.”  The book’s authors then quoted an article first published in 1879, which said that the National Road “was excellently macadamized; the rivers and creeks were spanned by stone bridges; the distances were indexed by iron mileposts, and the toll-houses supplied with strong iron gates.… There were sometimes twenty gaily painted four-horse coaches each way daily. The cattle and sheep were never out of sight. The canvas-covered wagons were drawn by six or twelve horses. Within a mile of the road the country was a wilderness, but on the highway the traffic was as dense as in the main street of a large town. Ten miles an hour is said to have been the usual speed for coaches; but between Hagerstown and Frederick they were claimed to have made twenty-six miles in two hours. These coaches finally ceased running in 1853. There were also through freight-wagons from Baltimore to Wheeling, which carried ten tons. They were drawn by twelve horses, and their rear wheels were ten feet high.”

article © Jennifer Singleton / Carriage Association of America / The Carriage Journal

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