history


When we last checked in with Mr. Johnson, he was on his way to Wells.

The next morning …

“I left the ranch at Hallocks on the 12th [of September 1882] and reached Wells on the 13th, a distance of about thirty miles. It was about break of day as I awoke from my sleep and got up and gave the cattle their liberty to eat hay or grass as they choose, and then went back to bed again. It was a cold and frosty morning.

“After a little while the owner of the ranch came out to me saying, ‘Well, stranger, did you sleep well, and could you keep warm during the night?’ ‘I did, sir.’ ‘It is a cold, frosty morning, come into the house, I have a good fire. Your cattle are all right and doing well; go in.’ I took my lunch basket and went into the house; the lady was making the breakfast ready. While this was going on, I went out and greased my wagon, which I do every other day. As I was returning to the house I met my friend with two pails of grain, which he gave me for my cattle. After breakfast I prepared to leave and turning to them, said, ‘Friends, what can I say to you for your hospitality? I shall ever gratefully remember you; good morning.’ ‘Good morning. Success to you, I trust you will get along all right. I should like to hear how you get along on your journey.’

“It was just half-past five o’clock as I left the ranch. After traveling about a mile, I came to the river, which I successfully forded. My road now lies between the railroad and the river, the latter on my right. It is a fine morning, a fine trail, and we are all feeling finely. Shortly we shall leave this long alkalic desert.

“About half-past six the express train we met and at eleven o’clock we came to a stop. It was where I could get down to the river to water my cattle. Here I made my dinner. While we were resting, the emigrant train from the west passed by, the hands on the train saluting us, as they still remembered me and my outfit. At one o’clock [we] resumed the journey toward Wells, and at half-past two we came to the river once more, that had to be forded again and for the last time I had been informed. I have followed this river, right and left, for more than three hundred miles, crossing and re-crossing many time, and only once on a bridge. This ford looked a nasty one, with only about thirty feet of water to cross; the rest appeared to be all mud.

“I got on to the carriage and spoke to the horse, saying, ‘Fanny, this is a nasty, muddy hole, but we have got to cross, so let us try it.’ We went down the bank into the mud, the horse sinking up to her knees at every step and on getting to the water there was good stepping, as we were then on a sunken bridge. Here I stopped to let the cattle drink all they needed, and having drunk all they would, I spoke to the horse, saying, ‘Fanny, go on.’

“After stepping about eight or ten feet, she left the bridge, got into the mud and floundered over, breaking both of her tugs, and bringing me and the dashboard face downwards into the mud and water, leaving the carriage, cow, and dog in the creek. I was a muddy fellow, you bet.

“My thoughts quickly comprehended my situation: here I was, far from any help and nothing to get my carriage out of the creek with. What to do, was the question: I want two ropes about thirty feet long. First, I detached the cow and the dog from the carriage, then unloaded my goods and secured my horse to an alder tree, let the cow loose to graze for herself and then started for Wells for some means of extricating the wagon out of the creek. I knew that Wells was a large town for that part of the world. The railroad was about fifteen rods to my left. I took the railroad and went on traveling, I think about four miles an hour. About five o’clock I saw a man with two horses about a quarter of a mile from the railroad and went to him. He was traveling West, where he did not just know. He had made a fire and was cooking beans for his supper. I told him the fix I had got in, in crossing the river and was on my way to Wells for two ropes, so that I could hitch them on the forward axles and make them fast to the tug buckles, then I thought my horse would drag the carriage out of the creek. He replied, ‘Stranger, if I had not these beans cooking, I would break camp and go back to help you. But I can let you have the ropes, they are on my horses; take them. I can hobble one of them, the other will not then go away and you need go no further.’

“I took the ropes and went back, finding all right but the cow; she was nowhere to be seen. It was dark, so that I was not able to see any distance. For a few moments I had some peculiar feelings. Where can she be and where gone? On going for the ropes I remembered seeing a herd of cattle, so I thought that she might have strayed off with them. I called for her, ‘Bessie, Bessie,’ and the horse would call after me, for a time without success. I continued calling for the cow, when after a time she came scampering back into camp with a large herd of cattle after her. I had been feeling pretty blue, but her appearance cheered me up. I caught and made her fast, giving her some grain.

“My wagon was still in the creek and in the wagon was a box made to fit the body of the wagon. In this box I kept all needful articles, and now I wanted my lantern and some kerosene oil. I took off my boots, stockings, pants, and drawers, put on my overcoat, fastening the skirt tight around my waist and went into the creek and got my lantern and oil, and made the ropes fast to the front axles of the carriage. With the oil I filled my lamp and the balance I poured on the ground and set it on fire. The water I used to wash me. After this, I re-dressed and ate a cold supper, not being able to find wood for a fire. Then I fed the cattle and went to bed to rest, as I was very tired. During the night I was awakened by the passing express train. And the herd of cows that my cow had become acquainted with, kept around the camp all night and disturbed me some.

“Early on the morning of the 13th, I was up and connected the ropes with the tug buckles, and then hitched my horse to the ropes, and it was not much trouble to drag the carriage out of the creek. I put my things back in the carriage and got all ready for moving on.”

This is rather off topic, but I thought I would share another then-and-now set of photos from our recent trip. While we were in Normandy, we visited several of the D-Day sites, memorials, cemeteries, etc. One of these was Omaha Beach. I understand that one of the things that made June 6th, 1944, so incredibly difficult for the American soldiers landing on that beach was, in fact, the beach itself … it’s incredibly wide and flat and completely without cover from the gunfire that rained down on them. Those same features, especially if one is visiting on a cool, gray day when hardly anyone else is there, now make the beach a remarkably beautiful, peaceful place.

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As we were leaving the beach, we walked for a bit along the trails on the dunes, which are now a nature preserve and filled with greenery, flowers, and birds …

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And then we happened on to this, just over the crest of the dunes:

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The visitor-information plaque says, “On 6 June, at around 10 a.m., hundreds of men were stuck on this beach amongst the destroyed landing crafts. In front of them was the small Ruquet valley, protected by two fortified points. Today, all that is visible is one large gun in its blockhouse [above]. It was hit by fire from an approaching vessel 1 km (1,000 yards) away, and was destroyed for good by a ‘half-track.’ The U.S. engineers immediately opened this road toward the plateau, and at around 3 p.m., the heavy U.S. equipment took this first, and only, cleared exit from the Omaha site. The 1st Division ‘Big Red One’ used the blockhouse as a command post, and soon, thousands of GIs took this road to liberty.”

This photo, from the information plaque, shows a 1944 view of the same blockhouse we visited, from about the same vantage point.

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… Well, not really. We’re back home in Kentucky now. But, as I have so many photos to share, we’ll still be in France for quite a while here on the blog.

One of the villages we visited is called Creully, and we happened to visit while there was a small outdoor market in the square …

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On one of the village’s tourist-information plaques, we saw this photo, taken from nearly the same spot as the one I took above, of an earlier market day … when all the vehicles were horse-drawn.

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After a wonderful, busy trip through parts of Belgium and northern France, we’re leaving tomorrow morning for our (long) trip home.

A.J. and I have joked that (not counting a lovely couple of couple of days at the CIAT Cuts) this trip has been our “war and peace tour” … We’ve visited major battlefields, front lines, and cemeteries from the Hundred Years War, the French Revolution, the Napoleonic Wars, World War I, and World War II. And we’ve visited about fifteen gorgeous and varied old churches.

One of those many churches, in Caen, had some old photos on display … including this gem.
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… After conversing with his host, Mr. Johnson said, “‘Friend, it is now about time to milk my cow, can you let me have a pail and I will go and milk her and give them some water and grain.’ ‘I will go with you, we have plenty of good water.’ While I was milking my host came with two pails of grain for my cattle. This was wholly unexpected. I gave the grain to the cattle and then carried the milk into the house, giving it to the wife, when she remarked, ‘Sammy, what a lot of milk his cow gives, more than all ours put together. Well, stranger, I suppose you would like to go to bed soon?’ ‘Yes, I feel as though I would like some rest.’ ‘Any time when you are ready I will show you to your room.’ ‘But, friends, I always sleep with my cattle; I have had good beds offered me, but I always decline them. I dare not leave my cattle; should someone borrow them I fear they would not return them in season. I carry my bedding, make the cow fast to one wheel and the horse to the opposite, and myself and dog lay between them. Many nights I have been awakened by the snorting of my horse. I always keep my lantern burning. Many times I have been awakened by the wolves around me, but as yet have come to no harm. Tomorrow I would like to reach Wells. What is the distance.?’ ‘Wells is about thirty miles from here. You can not travel to Wells in one day, can you?’ ‘I travel about two and a half miles an hour, day and night if I wish; sometimes I crowd three miles into an hour and sometimes only two, but I average the two and a half miles. I suppose I am not far from the river?’ ‘The river is north of us, about a half mile, and a half mile from here you ford the river, then there is a good road to Wells.’ ‘I must reach Wells tomorrow. I can travel that distance in fifteen hours, with stops, and should like to start at six o’clock. If you make a good fire, I will take advantage of it and make myself some coffee. I have some good [coffee] that I brought with me from San Francisco, so you see what I carry with me. Well, friends, I will go to bed with my cattle.’ ‘Stranger, you had better sleep in the house, it looks like a cold, frosty night; your cattle will be safe.’ ‘You do not know that. When coming through Hallecks I intended to have stopped there overnight, but things did not suit me, so I came on here. Perhaps some of those I saw may follow me; I have been advised to look sharp after my cattle.’ So lighting my lantern I left them for the night and went to my quarters, securing the cattle for the night and laid down for sleep.”

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