Argentina


Jill’s Internet access while in Argentina (where she arrived yesterday and the rest of the CAA group arrived / is arriving today) will be rather spotty, but she was able to send this first-day-of-the-trip update from the group’s swanky Buenos Aires hotel …

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CAA Trip to Argentina 2013, Arrival Day

“We have seen all but two people on the CAA trip, and their flight may have been delayed, as Buenos Aires is having a huge storm today — lots of rain and wind. B.A. has had a very dry winter (or summer, actually, as they have reverse seasons to us), so the Argentines are happy about this rain. We are not, however, as it may affect our reaching some of the estancias that we plan to visit. Why, you ask? Because once we leave the city tomorrow and the main (paved) roads, we encounter dirt roads. All this rain is going to cause mud, and our bus may not be able to pass. That is all something to worry about tomorrow, though! Tonight we will gather in our gorgeous hotel, the Sofitel, and enjoy meeting each other while having a drink and then dinner. We will be joined tonight by Dr. and Mrs. Guillermo Gibelli (he has been responsible in arranging all our private visits), and by Pauline Edbrooke (who has made all our Argentine arrangements), and by Cali (our very capable and delightful interpreter / guide).”

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This year’s CAA trip to Argentina is underway, and Jill’s sent a few photos from the group’s first few days of visiting fellow CAA members and their estancias, horses, and carriage collections.

I think this photo — one of Dr. Gibelli’s Hackney horses at his Estancia La Invernada, near Buenos Aires – is lovely.

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You can see more of Jill’s photos on the CAA’s Facebook page.

Jill had said that the report in yesterday’s post would be her final one from Argentina, but then another — and more great photos — arrived in my inbox.

So here is the (really, truly) final report on the CAA group’s wonderful visit to Argentina:

“Monday was our last day of the trip. We departed at 9:00 a.m. from the Estancia El Rosario (our home for the previous three nights) and drove an hour to the town of Lujan, where we were met by CAA member Raul Aquerretta, who had kindly agreed to take us around the carriage museum (open especially for us on Monday, their normal day of closing). As we were all greeting each other, out of the museum door came Andreas Furger of Switzerland (he’s one of the speakers at the 2012 CAA / CWF International Carriage Symposium). ‘What are you doing here?’ I asked, and was told that he had come to buy a Hackney horse from Raul. He was delighted with his horse and was very excited to now be driving a Hackney.

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the final group dinner for this trip, at Estancia El Rosario

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a typical Argentine wagon, at the carriage museum in Lujan (photo by Jill Ryder)

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Raul describes one of the vehicles in the museum's collection (photo by Jill Ryder)

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Lujan cathedral (photo by Jill Ryder)

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“After our wonderful visit to the fascinating museum, we had a quick look around the church and drove on to Escobar for our final visit. Many of our local hosts had gathered at the Gibellis’ weekend home to greet us again, enjoy lunch, and look at the carriages and hundreds of appointments that Dr. Gibelli has collected over the years.

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some of the Gibellis' collection in Escobar (photo by Jill Ryder)

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... and more of the Gibelli collection (photo by Jill Ryder)

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... and some harness on display (photo by Jill Ryder)

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Dr. Gibelli discusses some of his vehicles with the group (photo by Jill Ryder)

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everyone enjoyed lunch outside at the Gibellis' weekend home (photo by Jill Ryder)

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“Then it was back into Buenos Aires to stay at the Sofitel Hotel. We all met in the bar at 8 p.m. and were joined by Milagro Molina de Lattuada, who signed copies of her book on Hackney horses (recently translated into English) — a gift from the CAA. And so ends another outstanding trip to Argentina.”

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Milagro de Lattuada joined the group at their B.A. hotel, to sign her book on Hackney horses (photo by Jill Ryder)

Jill’s final report and photos from Argentina (all from Sunday):

“After breakfast, we received a telephone call telling us, ‘hurry, hurry, the horses are ready!’

“We drove out of town and were greeted by Juan Gibelli and two pairs of horses. We loaded the vehicles and drove into town. As we approached the town, there were hundreds of horses gathering for the start of the parade, and we drove right through them! Quite a sight and almost too hard to describe. We alighted and hot-footed it through town to our reserved seating outside on the sidewalk. As soon as we arrived, we were served drinks and empanadas and the parade started.

“We watched hundreds (perhaps thousands) of horses being led be a rider or loose, as most of them were in trapillos (a bell-mare group). A guacho rides his horse, leading a mare with a bell around her neck, and then the rest of the horses (having been brought up like this) are loose and stay right with the bell mare. Where else in the world could you see such a thing: people sitting and standing on the side of the streets with hundreds and hundreds of loose horses in the street! Incredible.

“Then it was off to lunch and then back to the arena to see the big festival with ALL the trapillos in the ring at the same time!

“We watched for two hours and were on overload, and so we returned to the estancia and recounted the fantastic day.”

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

This weekend, I received two more (final?) updates from Jill on the CAA group’s visit in Argentina. You can read about Saturday here, and about Sunday in tomorrow’s post.

“After a leisurely breakfast at El Rosario (such a peaceful and delightful place to stay), we set off on a short drive to Estancia San Luis, belonging to Prudencio Hernandez and his wife, Isabella. We were met at the gate by three carriages and all of us alighted the van and got on a vehicle for a short drive around the estancia. If we had tried to invent the weather, we could not have done better than today! Sunny with a pleasant breeze. WOW!

“The Hernandez daughters, their husbands, and their children joined us all for refreshments and then a wonderful lunch of a typical Argentine stew, served to each of us in a pumpkin … which we enjoyed while sitting outisde on tables under the trees. As is the custom, we took our time over lunch. Then, once again, we boarded the carriages for a much longer drive through this beautiful estancia, with a stop half way for a “picnic” (well, after all, it had been more than half an hour since we’d eaten!). Then it was back to the stables, where we were served an afternoon tea under the trees. 

“The day went so very fast, and the hospitality shown to us was simply amazing.”

Jill also sent these photos, all from the group’s visit to the beautiful Estancia San Luis:

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

 
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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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(photo by Jill Ryder)

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